Well, it is a good question. Most would say “clothes” and leave it at that. Truth is, few realize what the clothing on our backs represents--in terms of fibre growing, harvesting, processing, fabric/clothing manufacturing, fabricating, importing or selling. Funny thing is most of our time is spent in or on fabric, and our body’s largest and most abused living organ--skin, is continually exposed to fibres of one kind or another. In as much as we are overly warned to be cautious and aware of what goes IN our bodies, why then is it that we don’t consider more about what goes ON them? Our skin, being most susceptible to damage from exposure or absorption really deserves concern beyond moisturizers or sun-screen. It just seems timely with the green-earth focused world we live in to start asking more questions.
Yet, we all do enjoy thinking ourselves as being plugged-in to the now, fine planetary citizens that we are. So of course we should be turning over some of society’s rocks to see what is beneath. In some cases it won’t be a pretty sight, but the quest for a green-harmonious world demands that we step-up our game and get involved.
Making A Production Out Of It...
So what am I so pumped up about and what is the big deal about the clothing industry anyway?
It is complicated to answer. Although the creation of fabric is as ancient as mankind itself, the modern translation of natural or man-made fibres into fabric uses intricate technologies, multifaceted engineering and a myriad of chemicals. Indeed we are quite intimate with our cotton, polyesters, rayon, nylon, wool, and silk materials--only thing is, we just don't tend to know too much about them. Yet every garment we wear, represents a complex background of processing and production sequences which takes place long before a sewing machine evens touches it.
The manufacturing of fibres/fabrics includes some form of:
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Sizing/desizing - helps fibre become weavable
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Scouring - cleans impurities using alkaline agents, surfactants or possibly solvents
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Carbonizing or degumming
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Bleaching - whitening techniques, pre-treatment before dying
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Heat-Setting - used to lock finishes into the fibre
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Dying/printing (sometimes with metals or formaldehyde fixing agents.)
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Finishing (urea-formaldhyde product helps reduce shrinkage and wrinkling)
The performance of fabric that consumers expect such as wearability, washability, permanent press, colour fastness, reduced shrinking and wrinkling, comes to us with an environmental price tag. Additionally some of these procedures require high energy output. After the manufacturing process and during the life-time of the material, there are additional procedures to maintain a garment including dry cleaning, detergents and variety of softeners and starches.
Most of these processes require water, plenty of it, and the fabric industry has contributed more pollutants to our waterways than many other industries. Even generally skimming the subject it is plain to see why people have developed multiple chemical sensitivities to which there are simply no easy answers. To try to isolate and identify the source of problems brings us into a matrix of synergies beyond calculations.
For years my family has walked about wearing clothing that they thought good for them, mainly cotton. There was an avoidance of man-made fibres such as polyesters, rayon or other combinations and blends. We thought that cotton was ‘natural’ and therefore the most preferred choice for our clothing. Little did we know that cotton is one of the most heavily sprayed crops in the world. Some of the pesticides and herbicides are washed out during the manufacturing process, but what about residuals that become locked into the fibres? What about the residuals contained in cotton by-products? Products that most are well acquainted with like cotton balls or feminine napkins/tampons or cotton waste, cotton-seed oil which makes its way into animal feed and our own food sources. On another profound level what about the residuals that travel into our water sources? Nitrates that are depleting oxygen levels in waterways and bastardizing the eco-system. Killing aquatic life. It is scarey to think that we are helping create permanently toxic sites that may never be resourceful again. So when buying clothes, remember that although synthetic fabrics are derived from formulas of petroleum, wood pulp, coal or esters of acids and alcohols--what we think of as NATURAL fibres such as silk, cotton and wool enter into a variety of caustic processes before the products reach our shopping carts too.
You may be thinking this is too big for me. What can I do about it? Start by asking those other questions. Consider buying “certified” organic products. Accept that truly natural fibres, fruits and vegetables won’t look perfect. Garments dyed using vegetable dyes are not color-fast, but low-impact dyes are at the least a more acceptable alternative. If we start buying environmentally considerate products, or thoughtfully purchase higher quality made clothing to outlast the cheap counterparts which fill up our recycle bins--then perhaps the demands on our water resources and lands can lighten-up and what we are wearing will make a difference to a greener lifestyle.
Organic Cotton…Preserving The Future
With today’s earth friendliness or environmental conscientiousness, planting organic cotton is fast becoming a way of impacting some of the environmental and health issues that exist on our planet. Conventional cotton crops require hundreds of highly-toxic chemicals in order to facilitate an opportune yield, requiring almost a quarter of the world’s insecticides and ten percent of the world’s pesticides! Taking into consideration that the plants are sprayed during an average growing season of ten times or more, this presents a huge impact on the environment. These chemicals are making their way into the “plant-animal-people-chains-of-life” and will eventually destroy the quality of our soil, air, water and living conditions. With organic cotton, the use of hundreds of thousands of kilograms of harmful fertilizers, pesticides, insecticides, fungicides, herbicides and defoliants is avoided yearly. Although it is a high-maintenance, finicky crop to process, the effort is well worth the cause.
Sowing Seeds That Harvest Rewards:
- Organic seeds are untreated with insecticides/fungicides and are never genetically modified or fertilized
- Soil fertility, balance and moisture retention are achieved through the addition of organic matter/fertilizer, crop rotation, and the maintenance of diverse ecosystems
- Weed-free soil is the result of “physical hoeing” or “manual removal” instead of the use of Herbicides
- Pests are controlled through the use of cultural/biological/manual practices like the addition of manure or natural phosphates, the introduction of beneficial insects to control predators, or planting different crops close by to attract them
- Defoliation is a requirement brought about through water management or seasonal freeze where the leaves drop from the plant for manual or mechanical harvest (leaves must not be included in the harvest)
- A cotton gin separates the seed from the fibre and must be thoroughly dismantled and cleaned to avoid contamination of the organic crop
- Seeds are sold to return to the ground and fibre bales make their way to textile mills
Characteristics And Care:
- Fabric finishing-agents are non-chlorine and eco-friendly
- Some fabrics are “finished” and “sanforized” to control shrinkage
- “Unfinished” fabric is called “greige” and will shrink more
- Before cutting and sewing, pre-washing in baking soda, vinegar or any of the environmentally friendly laundering products and natural drying without heat, is recommended
- Low-impact dyes are used but the market remains open to improvement in avoiding the use of any chemicals in the dye process; currently toxic colour-fixing agents are still needed in natural dyes from plant and animal sources
- Under dry, humid temperature conditions, organic cotton is moisture-absorbing, cool and comfortable
- A strong, durable fibre that becomes softer with each laundering
- Natural relief from chemical sensitivity and allergies
Growing “Green” Comfort:
A blanket of comfort is unfolding as a growing number of “green products” are made from organic materials. With an increased demand for natural, safe products that sustain and put forth the care of our planet, the list of quality uses/products for “organic cotton” will continue to grow.
- Hygiene items are available such as baby diapers, wash cloths, hand/bath towels and handkerchiefs
- Personal care products are popular such as cosmetics, cotton balls, swabs, tampons/feminine napkins/panty-liners and nursing pads
- Household mainstays are produced like bedding, curtains, cushions and kitchen “cleanup” helpers
- Casual to high-end fashions are designed for babies, children and adults
- Food snacks are made for people and pets using cottonseed oil as well as in livestock feed
- Paper products such as stationary and note cards are an avenue for growth
As consumers of products that provide and maintain our earthly necessities, it is our responsibility to ensure, whenever possible, that their use is in no way detrimental to the environment or the health of its inhabitants. Organic cotton is only one way of making a positive difference in our world. Just like an inheritance, it is our honour to care for and preserve this beautiful planet Earth to keep it well for future generations.
Alternative Solutions – Bamboo
In the fashion world "vanity" industries have sprouted everywhere creating niches that consumers can't survive without much like "water or food" to the ego. With vast populations of people demanding good-looks--youth--sexiness there is an unconscious buying frenzy just so each can achieve their own unique style. How long are we going to allow our demands for fashion to damage resources from our planet? There are organic or healthier products on the market that can help save our environment and bamboo is an amazing alternative to consider!
Did you know that bamboo is the largest member of the grass family of plants? So ecologically speaking, the crop of bamboo doesn't affect the world's decreasing lumber resources, and its ability to absorb water accounts for rapid plant renewal. The full cultivation period is 3 to 5 years before it is harvested, crushed and pulped. What's remarkable about bamboo is that no chemicals are needed or added during the growth cycle. It's an eco-friendly product and its re-growth cycle immediately occurs after each harvest. Within the first 24-hour period bamboo is known for a fast-pace growth of several feet.
The key ingredient in bamboo is the "kun" which is extracted and made into a variety of products used throughout the world. This plant form has been traditionally used in construction materials, furniture, flooring or household accessories. Recently though Bamboo has become more popular for it's durability over other sources in unique applications such as personal care items and fabric.
Why Bamboo for clothing?
Clothing made from the "kun" not only has strength, is antibacterial by nature, 100% biodegradable, has anti-ultrviolet properties and is fungus free even after repeated washings. It receives an extra wash during the dying process, so shrinkage is minimal and the lowest impact dyes are used. Since bamboo absorbs quickly the fibres require even less of a dying process. If you suffer from sensitive skin or allergies bamboo fibres stay fresher and odorless making it a hygienic and healthier choice. What is also interesting--it's static-free and has the natural ability to wick away moisture even on the hottest days. Deep in the fibers are micro-gaps and micro-cells which promote both ventilation and moisture absorption; this natural feature helps you feel cooler and wicks away wetness from your skin making you feel dry. Bamboo acts like a second layer of skin because the fibres breathe with you. Whether knit into t-shirts or other clothing items and/or linens, bamboo's velvety sheen makes it soft and silky against your skin. In a nut shell this soothing fabric is comfortable to wear and it maintains its form after numerous washings. It is a truly natural choice for active and loungewear!
Laundry Tips: Avoid using fabric softeners--they could fill the micro-gaps causing fabric to smell, destroying the hygienic properties within the fibers. Since most of our clothes are conventionally made it would make more sense to wash bamboo clothing separately.
