Now you are inspired to begin those outside chores! Perhaps you will formulate fresh organic soil from fruit and vegetable peels, eggshells or old plants and dried up leaves. Turn that rich soil into an herb garden full of green fleshy plants with sweet fragrances that will draw your senses to. You might even consider purchasing new perennials from your local greenhouse or just try transplanting what you already have. Be sure to organize a plan of action when digging up perennials and where to put them. Before digging, gather up your garden tools like; lawn rakes, shovels, your watering can and that lawnmower with a dump trailer to get you started.
There’s always time for something innovative, that’s exhilarating during the warmer weather. Tasks like starting a new garden will increase your energy level, and your brain will become stimulated just by contemplating these fresh ideas. Creative gardening will not only enhance your property value but will also improve your health. For all those ‘green thumbs’ out there remember to drink plenty of water, dress according to the weather conditions and to stretch your muscles either before or after your hard days work. Enjoy your “just rewards” when all is said and done.
Cashing-In-On Compost
For
many, composting is as standard as planting a garden. No matter
where you live, whether you’re a city dweller or country folk, all
can reap their just reward from sowing this practice.
With
today’s focus on recycling, much of our waste travels to local
facilities for processing but having a designated compost spot puts
some of its benefit back into our own backyards. It can be done just
about anywhere there’s a little extra space and used all around the
garden, saving money and offering the convenience of feeding your
need on-site. Plus, there’s less guilt from vegetables spoiling in
the fridge (as a result of our busy lives), because we can feed it to
the composter!
There
are a number of commercial composters on the market, but those of the
home-made variety are often to an advantage because you can design
them specifically in terms of available space and need. Several
ideas exist for construction out of wood, concrete blocks, bricks,
logs and fencing. It’s even possible to make one out of skids using
a large, heavy-duty one on the bottom, covering the slats with a
piece of garden fabric, and using two or three others as the walls,
back and dividers. Sliding panels that can be removed make it easy
to turn or transport the soil and it’s best to make room for three,
four-by-six bins or piles if possible; one for the early stages of
the recycling process; a second for partially decayed material; a
third that is ready for use.
Experienced
gardeners know that composting is all about layers. A layer
of waste including kitchen vegetation, coffee grounds, eggshells,
shredded paper, ashes, sawdust, straw, weeds, grass clippings,
mulched leaves, shredded twigs…a layer of manure, soil (old
compost/peat moss) and fertilizer mixed…a layer of water to
distribute the fertilizer down into the pile but not enough to flush
it right on through. A commercial fertilizer (such as 5-10-10 as per
direction) or 2 cups of Blood Meal or Ammonium Sulphate per layer, is
adequate for a 4 x 6 pile.
In
order for bacteria to multiply and break down the waste, they need
food, moisture and air. Sugars and proteins found in the vegetation
provide nutrients while adding some water and aerating the pile
completes the requirements. If the weather’s dry, water will be
needed every few days and the pile should be turned again in two to
three weeks for use in three months.
It’s
possible to quicken this process by shredding all waste material
first so it’s smaller and decays faster, allowing better air and
water penetration. When the climate is warm, a heat wave
appears above the pile after a day and or so which signifies it’s
time to turn and water the pile. Bringing material from the outer
edges into the centre of the pile, where it’s moist and warm,
encourages decomposition. The next few days will see it heat up
again and the process repeated until you’ve got some top-grade dirt
that’s ready for use.
Now
picture a front garden overgrown with Juniper bushes and with a
burning desire for change, compost becomes your best friend. After
hacking away and cutting down root stumps, you find you’re faced
with hard-packed clay. Your first concern is for soft, rich loam and
this is where you really cash in on your compost. Depending on the
amount of soil needed, it’s fairly simple to transform a barren,
dead zone into a circle of life. With shovel and wheel-barrow in
tow, a little digging and some mixing, you’ve given it a boost of
nutrients and transformed it into a workable wonder.
If
you’re accustomed to planting perennials, this can be an added
bonus for “shopping-on-site”. Small, bush-like plants such as
Sedum or Columbine, can be transplanted as small seedlings which
sprout up here and there when you’re not looking. Other beauties,
such as Hostas, can be split into several plants and bulbs, such as
Tulips, Daffodils or Day Lillies, can be divided. Slips of
ground-cover plants like Lilly-of-the-Valley or invasive ones such as
Cannelle (which go to seed and must be controlled), will give your
garden a foundation to add to. You can also shop from the gardens of
family and friends, as long as you’re willing to return the favour
or barter some compost!
Composting
is a “win-win situation” that’ll keep your flower pots full and
your garden topped-up at little-to-no-cost with minimal effort. So
recycle your waste…and want not rich soil!
Easy Care, Easy Grow Herbs
Planting herb gardens can be economical, rewarding and a charming experience. First, many herbs are perennials, so with proper care they will bless your yard with years of productive growing so an initial investment could well repay you a hundred fold. Secondly herbs can be either medicinal, culinary or both. Finally many herbs blend well within other types of gardens and are also beneficial, aromatic, complimentary additions in a variety of container plantings. Starting a small herb garden could consist of a few favorites on your kitchen window sill, by using an inside/outside container or within a small outside plot which suits your yard, your wants, as well as your "thyme" frame (sorry).
Not only harvested for use in cooking, herbs are worth growing for their pleasant scented foliage and some of them for the simple beauty of their flowers. Many herbs are drought hardy, requiring minimal tending or pampering. They are almost like the "cats" of the plant world, but some require restricted locations as they have a tendency to ramble. Here are some Easy Care, Easy Grow Herbs:
CHIVES (Allium scboenoprasum) A perennial plant usually started from bulbs, but are apparently a snap to grow from seed too. When first transplanted they have a tendency to wilt slightly, but do not despair. These are some of the hardiest to grow during drought or even colder days. Adult plants may reach about 12 inches and are best started about 6 inches apart. Pinkish/purple flowers are pretty enough that this herb could make a nice garden border or compliment a rock garden too. Excellent culinary use--simply delicious!
DILL (Anethum graveolens) This annual has delicate almost feathery foliage, which may take off to about 21/2 feet and may continue to self-seed. Often used in pickling and for flavoring to salads or sauces.
LAVENDER (Lavandula). Here is another faithful perennial, which you may start from plantings or seed. This hardy plant has gray/green foliage and delightful pinkish or purple spikes of delicate flowers. These are lovely to plant along a walkway as the fragrance is soothing and non-offensive. Add dried flowers to freshen your linen cupboard or for making potpourri. Suspend bunches in a dry location such as an attic or garage.
MINT (Mentha spicata) This plant is almost too easy to grow, and can quickly take hold of its surroundings. Be cautious about planting locations as this plant spreads by creeping roots, which could choke out other plants. Spacing is important, 12" apart. It makes a tasty jelly or garnish for lemonade, other fruit drinks or desserts. Very soothing to the stomach and useful for medicinal purposes.
PARSLEY (Carum petroselinum) A much favored herb grown in culinary gardens and useful as a finely-chopped flavoring to soups or sprinkled over salads and vegetables. Parsley is an ancient digestion aid, perhaps that is why is customarily used as a garnish in restaurants? After planting you should get about two seasons growth after which you may have to resow seed or add younger plantings.
THYME (Thymus vulgaris) This hardy perennial is lately promoted as a "stepable" and yes you can plant it along pathways or use as a ground cover. When "stepped upon" it releases a delicate, peppery scent. Thyme is used for flavoring soups and poultry dressing.
When drying herbs:
Cut off tops of the leafy varieties in midsummer, best during a dry, sunny morning.
Wash with cold water and hang until water evaporates. Tie the stems together and dangle in a paper bag with stem ends at the opening. You can close the bag with an elastic band. Open a paper clip and use one end to hook through the band with the other to hang the herbs to dry. After 2 or 3 weeks remove from paper bags, crumble and store the leaves. You may also place herbs in a shallow pan to dehydrate them in an oven--set at "warm" but not over 100 degrees. Some people choose to dry them by spreading on trays covered with cheesecloth and placing in a dry location. Seed heads may be dried by allowing them to grow until mature and ready to drop from the plant. Cut heads/pods on a very dry day and spread on clean paper (not newspaper). Keep them in the sun the first day, as little insects, which may be hiding out, will leave as the seeds dry. Store herbs in glass jars or other airtight containers in a cool, preferably dark place.
Collection of Petals
Herbaceous perennial or ‘perennial’ plants are commonly known for their longevity. As for the ‘annual’ plant it is known for its life cycle in the span of one growing season. Perennials can be transplanted from one location to another. The ‘annuals’ are grown in the spring and can last till fall depending on the variety. When cooler temperatures start ‘annual’ petals drop seeds, then die when frost sets in.
Perennials are very adaptable to most soil and weather conditions. The best way to purchase them is in various stages growth; like between early April to late fall. During which time annuals come in handy adding a bit of contrast throughout your flowerbeds. Location and drainage is vital when excavating, so keep in mind before planting. There are some varieties that love the moisten earth as for other the root structure could rot if not planted in the correct soil, therefore won’t produce.
Unfortunately in the colder parts of the country, perennials don’t last. The ‘herbaceous perennial’ loose its petals, leaves turns brown and the root systems persist through out the winter. Once the foliage dies cut back the dead leaves so that the nutrients goes to the roots or bulbs. This will produce a much healthier perennial for the coming years.
Then we have the ‘bulb’ commonly know as flowering bulb -- its also known as a ‘herbaceous perennial’. These will come to life every April until the colder temperatures take over. Some bulbs need to be dug up at the end of season and brought indoors for the next year. By not doing so will lead to bulb rot.
Before beginning your project your garden should consist of manure, peat moss and mixture of compost. Then add organic matter to the mixture into the top of soil. Cover your areas with mulch about 3 to 5 inches then begin to arrange plants accordingly. When that is complete introduce fertilizer to assist growth. Ask questions and read plant instructions carefully before transplanting. Enjoy! You will have a treasured garden for years to come.
Yikes! Mole Holes
In early months of the year there could be signs of predators loitering in your back yard. You may never notice them unless your yard is moist and never dry. They hide in the darkened shadows of the underground world of your turf and/or gardens. Their whereabouts are traced along the ridges and mounds of soil they leave behind while tunneling through “mother earth”.
The “mole” --rodent mammal-- constructs extensive underground passageways, which lead to many others chambers close to the surface. Burrowing activity transpires 365 days of the year. During warmer and wet months moles are in their glory channeling about like there is no tomorrow.
Why do moles love moist and sandy loam soils? The reason is that they’re foraging for food supply such as earthworms, insect larvae and arthropods or grubs. Occasionally they will also feed on vegetation like roots and flower bulbs. Usually becoming more of a nuisance by disturbing the roots causing them to turn brown and preventing plants from producing. The moles main agenda is in search for organisms in the soil. Through their sense of touch they can consume 70 to 90 percent of their body weight, which means they feed day and night.
You may never see a mole unless you’re trying to capture them. Their pudgy brownish gray bodies are much larger than your average mouse. They have distinctive powerful front claws enabling them to dig for food and torpedo their way through the loam. They also have short neck and long pointed snout and they show no signs of external ears. Their eyes are so tiny when captured you would think they have none. Some moles have a snout a star-shaped projection composed of 22 rays used to senses surroundings. Usually moles in the natural environment cause little damage unless they’re tunneling becomes too noticeable in lawns, gardens or even at golf courses. These types of rodents are truly a nocturnal specie that only survive in darken underground.
In colder parts of the country moles continue their daily activities since they do not hibernate like other animals. They will tunnel further beneath the frost line in pursuit of grub. Their source of food, such as earthworms follows suit in order to survive the frigid cold temperatures. Wherever there is an abundance of tasty bugs - moles could be taking up residence.
Controlling the mole population growth can be enduring, very challenging and expensive. First investigate closely, pinpoint that you have a problem. It may happen that another creature is playing havoc on your property. Consult your garden center on what products are available to effectively destroy the moles main food source. Ask if these products will harm your plants and bulbs or other animals.
Conversely, a moles life style plays an important role in the management of soil and grubs that destroy lawns. The benefit of having moles resides below ground as they push the humus down and in turn push up the subsoil to the surface. The subsoil is full of nutrients that helpful in the growth of grass and other plants. This leaves us to ask if we have the right to destroy what’s beneficial to our environment? When their presence becomes our worst nightmare with all the volcano mounds of subsoil they leave behind, should we kill off their food source? What to do?
